The bustle disappeared at the beginning of the 20th century. Women's silhouette became "S" shaped, a full bust line, a wasp of a waist and an exaggerated bottom. This was achieved with the use of a corset, constructed with whale boning or metal rods wrapped with either goat skin or heavy silk to prevent the wearer from getting punctured.
With the invention of sewing machines in America, women's garments developed in different ways, practical styles as well as impractical ones. Separate skirts were worn with high-necked blouses decorated with pin tucks, and leg of mutton sleeves, full at the top of the arm and narrowing to the wrist. Tight fitting jackets matching the skirt saw the beginnings of women's suits.
In 1858, an Englishman, Charles Worth, established the very first haute couture fashion house in Paris. Pictured on the left is one of his day-wear designs for a lady of finesse and stature.
By 1903 the Arrow Shirt Company's image of a well dressed man, as illustrated in the ad on the above by JC Leyendecker, presented the public with the classically cut shirt with a very stiff detachable collar. The look was very formal, clean cut and all American.
Unfortunately, the three-piece suit worn by men throughout this century hasn't changed much at all. The main difference over the decades are in the buttoning in the jacket and the width of the trousers. The colors mostly used for men's suits are charcoal grey, navy, black, tan and dark brown. It was only after the first world war that fashion again took a dramatic turn. As interests changed, so did clothing. Sportswear was increasing in popularity and was incorporated into everyday dress. US Rubber developed the first sneaker "KEDS" in 1917. The word "sneaker" was coined litterally because the rubber sole made the shoes quiet compared to all the other leather soled shoes which made a noise when you walked.
By the early 1920's clothes became more relaxed. Women started participating in sports. This required a shift in the styles of clothing. Hemlines became higher, showing off more leg. With the elimination of corsets women were able to move with ease for the very first time! The look of "the Flapper" was the new ideal. Long hair and curls were replaced by the now classic, bobbed haircut. Popularized, in part, by Louise Brooks, a filmstar of the silent movie era. (pictured below)
With the popularity of rayon came the decline of the use of cotton. Elsa Schiaparelli opened a Paris boutique and became the pioneers for using zippers, unusual buttons and shoulder pads. Chiffon handkerchief dresses, halter dresses and dropped waistlines were what the stylish modern women wore. It was also at this time that women with more ample bussoms tended to strap themselves down to create a longer and leaner line. Long stands of beads, hanging straight down to the waist, were commonly used as an accessory.
By the 1930s men's clothes were cut to emphasize the slimness of the hips and the broadness of the shoulders. Double breasted suits, usually in a tweed material, was very popular. Women's clothes took on a much softer outline than in the prior decade. Dresses, especially evening dresses, were cut "on the bias"* to allow the fabric to drape in soft folds like the gowns depicted on classical statues.
Jean René Lacoste (1904–1996) was famous for his considerable achievements in two very different arenas. Not only was he once ranked the world's top tennis player, but he designed a novel new tennis shirt that became the cornerstone of a world famous fashion empire. Lacoste, nicknamed "le Crocodile" on the courts, is remembered today primarily for the reptilian logo on his ubiquitous sportswear. Fashion historians believe the crocodile emblem (widely referred to as an alligator) was the first instance of a designer logo to appear on a garment.
